Chain Stitch Pocket Embroidery (with Kath & Kim Phrases!)

beginner embroidery project
Spruce up a favorite shirt with chain stitched text

This chain stitch pocket embroidery is a fun and simple craft, even for a beginner like me!
I’m not much for tedious or fussy crafts— (which is what I’d generally file embroidery under, sorry)— but the chain stitch entranced me with its simple repetition and satisfying results. Even when chainstitch script comes out less than perfect,  its imperfection is endearing.

So why Kath & Kim?

Kath & Kim, the early aughts Aussie sitcom, is hilariously silly. And, one could make the argument that it’s the most quotable show of all time, considering that most of the show’s content is based on endlessly repeatable catch phrases. (If you haven’t seen it, it’s on Netflix!)
You could, of course, stitch whatever phrase you want, but I hope that my fellow Kath & Kim fans get a kick out of this craft.

diy chain stitch shirt
The phrases I chose:  Kim’s “hornbag”, Kath’s “oh, hi doll”, and Kath’s “no way, josay”.

I’m not a chain stitch or embroidery expert by any means, just a gal that wanted some Kath & Kim phrases on a shirt! But now that I know how to chain stitch, I have extensive plans to chain stitch a whole lot of other things.

Have fun!

Chain Stitch Materials

  • Needle
  • Embroidery floss
  • Embroidery hoop
    • If you’re planning to embroider a pocket, be sure the hoop will fit inside the pocket. (They come as small as 3”)
  • Pencil
  • Fine tip sharpie
  • Chalk (for dark colored fabrics only)
  • A shirt
    • Note: sturdier fabrics like linen, flannel, or cotton shirting are a little easier to work with than tee shirts, but tee shirts work too.
kath & kim phrase embroidered shirt

Kath & Kim Phrase Ideas

Here’s a list of phrases from the show, Kath & Kim, that I wrote up. 
Even if you’re not familiar with Kath & Kim, I think a lot of these phrases would still make great shirts!

  • Oh hi doll
  • Nice, different, unusual 
  • Hiya, spunky! 
  • Treat em mean, keep ‘em keen
  • Hello Christmas!
  • The bees knees
  • Hornbag 
  • No way, josay 
  • Bit of shush please
  • You’re only human
  • Effluent 
  • Pain in the proverbials 
  • Stuff youse
  • Get stuffed
  • Tout suite 
  • Oh, jingies!
  • Hullo Sweets
  • I’m so there, Jackie o!

Text Style Options

Font Size

The letters can be any size that you wish. I went with small letters that are about 1/4-1/2” high. I think any smaller than this would be difficult to stitch (at least for a beginner!)

Font size will determine how many strands of embroidery floss should be used. (If you aren’t familiar, embroidery floss is actually 6 stands of fiber that can be easily separated.)

I used 1 strand of embroidery floss to embroider my shirts.

See the images below to compare 1/4-1/2″ high letters stitched with 3 strands vs 1 strand:

chain stitch using 3 threads of embroidery floss
Chain stitch done with 3 strands of embroidery floss.
chain stitch using 1 thread of embroidery floss
Chain stitch done with 1 strand of embroidery floss.
embroidery floss is six threads
Untwisting embroidery floss to divide strands.

Font Type

Chain stitching can be used to create cursive or non-cursive letters. Personally, I really like chain stitching with cursive, because the chain has a sort of 3D writing effect. The stitch can follow the overlapping of lines that naturally occur when writing cursive.

I think cursive is more challenging because the stitches can get a little fiddly to find when they’re close to each other or overlapping. Just remember, imperfection is part of the charm!

how to chain stitch cursive
Here you can see how the “o” began…
cursive chainstitching
…and here’s the “o” looping back over itself to make a 3D effect.

Make a Template

Next, you’ll need to make a template of your phrase to transfer onto your shirt. 

I used my own cursive handwriting to create my templates.
You can use your handwriting, or you can even type the phrase you’d like to use and then use that to create your template.

These step-by-step instructions will show you how:

practicing cursive text
Write or print out your phrase on a piece of paper using a pencil.
making a template for embroidery
When you’re happy with the template, use a marker that will bleed through to the back of the paper and trace over the phrase again.
marking location of embroidery with a pin
if you’re embroidering a tee shirt without a pocket, put the tee shirt on and mark where you’d like the phrase to sit using a pin or a pencil. Then remove the template from the tee shirt and continue to the next steps.
diy embroidery template
Flip the template over to the back where you should see the phrase clearly bled through with the sharpie.
tracing template with pencil to transfer to fabric
Trace over the phrase one more time, this time on the back side, using pencil. Use moderate pressure, you want to get a lot of the graphite of the pencil onto the template so it can transfer on to the shirt.
how to transfer a template for embroidery
Place the template where you want the phrase to appear on your shirt and hold it firmly in place. 
pressing template into fabric
Using your fingers, the back of your fingernail, or the back of a spoon, rub the template to press the graphite firmly onto the fabric. Try not to move the template as you do this.
template for chain stitch
The transfer will be faint—
transferring a template to fabric with pencil graphite
—so, use your pencil to go over the phrase one more time to make it more visible.
template for embroidery on dark fabric
To transfer onto a dark fabric, you’ll want to do this process using chalk on the back side of the template. To do this, I made the chalk into a point at the end for more accuracy. (To be honest I couldn’t believe this worked. I was careful not to touch it during the sewing process, but overall it held up very well!)
embroidering on a pocket
Place the embroidery hoop over your phrase where you will start stitching. For a pocket, place it inside the pocket so you don’t sew the pocket closed. Now you’re ready to chain stitch!
collared shirts with chain stitch embroidered pockets

How To Chain Stitch

I’ve done my best to put together a guide on chain stitching using photographs below, but I actually learned to chain stitch from the gifs in this article under the header “Method 5”. It’s very clear!

I recommend trying out the chain stitch on a scrap of fabric before you begin stitching on your shirt.
You can even try out stitching some letters for practice.

dividing embroidery floss
Cut a piece of embroidery floss around 30” long.

Divide the embroidery floss, pulling out the number of strands you need (1-3 strands recommended. I used 1.)

Hold the ends of the strands you want with one hand, and scrunch and pull the other strands down and away with the other.
threaded needle for embroidery
Thread the needle with the floss and double knot the end.
step by step chain stitch
Poke the needle through the back of the fabric and pull out.
step by step chain stitch
Then, poke back into the fabric from the front to the back …
step by step chain stitch
…to create a small stitch. Do not pull too tightly.
step by step chain stitch
Poke the needle through the back to the front again and pull through.
step by step chain stitch
This time, slide the tip of the needle under the previous stitch…
step by step chain stitch
… and pull through.
step by step chain stitch
This is the “chain” part that links the stitches together.
step by step chain stitch
Then, poke the needle back into the hole it came from (or as close to it as possible)… 
step by step chain stitch
… and pull until just taught.
step by step chain stitch
Repeat, chaining stitches together as you follow the line of the template.

French Knots for Exclamation Points and the Letter “I”

French knots make a very nice “dot”.
Alternatively, dots could be made with a small “x.”

If you’d like a different visual for French knots, look at the gifs in this article under the header “Method 2”.

step-by-step french knot
To make a French knot, poke the needle through the back of the fabric to the front of the fabric and pull.
step-by-step french knot
Bring the needle back to the hole you just came from, and hold the needle next to it.
step-by-step french knot
Keeping the needle close to the hole, wrap the floss around the needle with your non-dominate hand…
step-by-step french knot
… wrap once…
step-by-step french knot
… and twice…
step-by-step french knot
… it will look like this when the thread has been wrapped twice.
step-by-step french knot
Once two wraps are made, keep the floss pulling taught with your non-dominate hand and lower the needle down all the way to the fabric. 
step-by-step french knot
Still holding the floss taught with your non-dominate hand, poke the tip of the needle into the fabric right next to the hole it came from.
step-by-step french knot
Keep holding the floss taught with your non-dominate hand as you pull….
step-by-step french knot
… until the needle is pulled all the way through and the knot is complete
step-by-step french knot
The completed french knot will look like this!

Chain Stitch Tips

Chain stitching is simple, but there are still a few things I observed during this project that can help it look its nicest:

Don’t use a piece of floss that’s really long.

This will increase the likelihood that the floss will knot or tangle, which is really annoying.

Alternate the direction that you thread through when creating the “chain” part of the stitch.

This isn’t super necessary, but you might notice as you’re stitching that the floss starts to get twisty, which can make it tangle or knot. It can also start to make the stitches look different, because the floss is twisted more than usual. 

To combat this, just change the direction every once in a while. (See a visual below.)

If you want to be extra neat, you can try alternating every stitch.

tips for chain stitch embroidery
Threading the needle through one direction…
tips for chain stitch embroidery
… and the other direction.

Don’t make the stitches too small, too close together, or too tight.

This will make it very hard to find the stitch you need to be threading through to create the chain. Also, your project will take a really long time!

Experiment with putting your stitches further apart and see how it goes.

Keep the template nearby for reference

Sometimes the pencil or chalk on the shirt itself can become hard to read. Looking back at the template can be really helpful!

person wearing shirt with embroidered text on the pocket

That’s it!

I hope this post was useful and that you have so much fun chain stitching! I’m hooked (or, chained?), and I have lots more chain stitch oriented crafts planned for the future.

Now that you can chain stitch, you can chain stitch with yarn onto a knit sweater, or make a fun throw pillow!

Enjoy!

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